1. get strong open handed
2. find the plumb line
3. use opposition
4. start movement from lower body
5. fool yourself
2010年8月25日 星期三
Balanced Strength with Lauren Lee
1. oppostion training and conditioning
run to increase recovery and strengthen legs
opposition: triceps helps mantling and lockoffs
abs work: core power and body tension
spins and flips good for parties
2. train power with dynos and steep walls
3. commit to climbing as much as possible
run to increase recovery and strengthen legs
opposition: triceps helps mantling and lockoffs
abs work: core power and body tension
spins and flips good for parties
2. train power with dynos and steep walls
3. commit to climbing as much as possible
2010年8月24日 星期二
Dynos 101 with Mike Auldridge
The basics:
1. Stagger feet for distance
2. Swing for momentum
3. Get weightless, relax, go
4. Stay focused
Advanced ideas
going big: be persistent
distance control: don't overshoot the target
take extra steps: "run" up the rock
sideways dynos: control the swing
have big crazy projects: learn something new
1. Stagger feet for distance
2. Swing for momentum
3. Get weightless, relax, go
4. Stay focused
Advanced ideas
going big: be persistent
distance control: don't overshoot the target
take extra steps: "run" up the rock
sideways dynos: control the swing
have big crazy projects: learn something new
How to get (and use) sick crimp strength with Jared Roth
1. Dead hang edges with one hand
2. Utilize the power you already have
3. Try to do the absurd
2. Utilize the power you already have
3. Try to do the absurd
2010年8月23日 星期一
How to develop power for steep walls with Malcolm Smith
I kind of make it up as I go along, depending on how I feel.
Cause before the walls I trained on were small, like this one usually I would emphasize small hand holds and small movements between them.
So that got my fingers strong, but it left me a bit weaker on bigger moves.
So I've tried to iron that out, just doing bigger moves and staying open, getting the arms and the body strong.
1. long pulls with bad footholds
I do stuff with very small foot holds,and kind of long moves, and trp to keep the feet on all the time, even if it's easier to jump the feet off, just try to keep them on, so it's body tension. And then I do stuff on bigger foot holds, kind of wider moves,always staying open on both types.
2. longer moves with good footholds (no twisting)
So you're getting strong open, because as soon as you twist or "egyptian", it's a lot easier to be strong that way, but it relies on big footholds. It's harder to jump in those positions, so it you can, you're better climbing face-on. The reason it's harder like that is because it requires a lot more in the shoulders to stabilize that joint. Your body is naturally stronger when you twist in like that. If you always climb like that, twisted in, it really limits how far you can move. Whereas if you're strong like that, open, then it opens up a lot more to you.
Cause before the walls I trained on were small, like this one usually I would emphasize small hand holds and small movements between them.
So that got my fingers strong, but it left me a bit weaker on bigger moves.
So I've tried to iron that out, just doing bigger moves and staying open, getting the arms and the body strong.
1. long pulls with bad footholds
I do stuff with very small foot holds,and kind of long moves, and trp to keep the feet on all the time, even if it's easier to jump the feet off, just try to keep them on, so it's body tension. And then I do stuff on bigger foot holds, kind of wider moves,always staying open on both types.
2. longer moves with good footholds (no twisting)
So you're getting strong open, because as soon as you twist or "egyptian", it's a lot easier to be strong that way, but it relies on big footholds. It's harder to jump in those positions, so it you can, you're better climbing face-on. The reason it's harder like that is because it requires a lot more in the shoulders to stabilize that joint. Your body is naturally stronger when you twist in like that. If you always climb like that, twisted in, it really limits how far you can move. Whereas if you're strong like that, open, then it opens up a lot more to you.
2010年1月18日 星期一
ORA-10631 Error when trying to shrink a table
The shrink clause is subject to the following restrictions:
In order to shrink segments that have function based indexes , get index ddl , drop the index , shrink the table and recreate the index.
- You cannot specify this clause for a cluster, a clustered table, or any object with a LONG column.
- Segment shrink is not supported for tables with function
- based indexes or bitmap join indexes.
- This clause does not shrink mapping tables of index
- organized tables, even if you specify CASCADE.
- You cannot specify this clause for a compressed table.
- You cannot shrink a table that is the master table of an ON COMMIT materialized view.
- Rowid materialized views must be rebuilt after the shrink operation.
In order to shrink segments that have function based indexes , get index ddl , drop the index , shrink the table and recreate the index.
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