I kind of make it up as I go along, depending on how I feel.
Cause before the walls I trained on were small, like this one usually I would emphasize small hand holds and small movements between them.
So that got my fingers strong, but it left me a bit weaker on bigger moves.
So I've tried to iron that out, just doing bigger moves and staying open, getting the arms and the body strong.
1. long pulls with bad footholds
I do stuff with very small foot holds,and kind of long moves, and trp to keep the feet on all the time, even if it's easier to jump the feet off, just try to keep them on, so it's body tension. And then I do stuff on bigger foot holds, kind of wider moves,always staying open on both types.
2. longer moves with good footholds (no twisting)
So you're getting strong open, because as soon as you twist or "egyptian", it's a lot easier to be strong that way, but it relies on big footholds. It's harder to jump in those positions, so it you can, you're better climbing face-on. The reason it's harder like that is because it requires a lot more in the shoulders to stabilize that joint. Your body is naturally stronger when you twist in like that. If you always climb like that, twisted in, it really limits how far you can move. Whereas if you're strong like that, open, then it opens up a lot more to you.
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