1. Motivation + preparation
2. Execution
3. Instinct
2010年8月24日 星期二
How to get (and use) sick crimp strength with Jared Roth
1. Dead hang edges with one hand
2. Utilize the power you already have
3. Try to do the absurd
2. Utilize the power you already have
3. Try to do the absurd
2010年8月23日 星期一
How to develop power for steep walls with Malcolm Smith
I kind of make it up as I go along, depending on how I feel.
Cause before the walls I trained on were small, like this one usually I would emphasize small hand holds and small movements between them.
So that got my fingers strong, but it left me a bit weaker on bigger moves.
So I've tried to iron that out, just doing bigger moves and staying open, getting the arms and the body strong.
1. long pulls with bad footholds
I do stuff with very small foot holds,and kind of long moves, and trp to keep the feet on all the time, even if it's easier to jump the feet off, just try to keep them on, so it's body tension. And then I do stuff on bigger foot holds, kind of wider moves,always staying open on both types.
2. longer moves with good footholds (no twisting)
So you're getting strong open, because as soon as you twist or "egyptian", it's a lot easier to be strong that way, but it relies on big footholds. It's harder to jump in those positions, so it you can, you're better climbing face-on. The reason it's harder like that is because it requires a lot more in the shoulders to stabilize that joint. Your body is naturally stronger when you twist in like that. If you always climb like that, twisted in, it really limits how far you can move. Whereas if you're strong like that, open, then it opens up a lot more to you.
Cause before the walls I trained on were small, like this one usually I would emphasize small hand holds and small movements between them.
So that got my fingers strong, but it left me a bit weaker on bigger moves.
So I've tried to iron that out, just doing bigger moves and staying open, getting the arms and the body strong.
1. long pulls with bad footholds
I do stuff with very small foot holds,and kind of long moves, and trp to keep the feet on all the time, even if it's easier to jump the feet off, just try to keep them on, so it's body tension. And then I do stuff on bigger foot holds, kind of wider moves,always staying open on both types.
2. longer moves with good footholds (no twisting)
So you're getting strong open, because as soon as you twist or "egyptian", it's a lot easier to be strong that way, but it relies on big footholds. It's harder to jump in those positions, so it you can, you're better climbing face-on. The reason it's harder like that is because it requires a lot more in the shoulders to stabilize that joint. Your body is naturally stronger when you twist in like that. If you always climb like that, twisted in, it really limits how far you can move. Whereas if you're strong like that, open, then it opens up a lot more to you.
2010年1月18日 星期一
ORA-10631 Error when trying to shrink a table
The shrink clause is subject to the following restrictions:
In order to shrink segments that have function based indexes , get index ddl , drop the index , shrink the table and recreate the index.
- You cannot specify this clause for a cluster, a clustered table, or any object with a LONG column.
- Segment shrink is not supported for tables with function
- based indexes or bitmap join indexes.
- This clause does not shrink mapping tables of index
- organized tables, even if you specify CASCADE.
- You cannot specify this clause for a compressed table.
- You cannot shrink a table that is the master table of an ON COMMIT materialized view.
- Rowid materialized views must be rebuilt after the shrink operation.
In order to shrink segments that have function based indexes , get index ddl , drop the index , shrink the table and recreate the index.
2009年7月15日 星期三
Solaris hardware configuration
-bash-3.00$ uname -a
SunOS as11 5.10 Generic_118822-30 sun4us sparc FJSV,GPUZC-M
-bash-3.00$ /usr/platform/FJSV,GPUZC-M/sbin/prtdiag
SunOS as11 5.10 Generic_118822-30 sun4us sparc FJSV,GPUZC-M
-bash-3.00$ /usr/platform/FJSV,GPUZC-M/sbin/prtdiag
2008年11月25日 星期二
Solaris Command
Finding Large Directories
to output the 10 largest directories in /var, sorted in ascending size order, use the following command:
- du -ko /var|sort -n |tail -10
- du -kod /var|sort -n |tail -10
Finding Large Files
1. Example 1: To find all plain files (not block, character, symbolic links, and so on) in a file system larger than 200,000 512-byte blocks (approximately 100 Mbytes) and sort on field 7 (file size) while numerically ignoring leading blanks, do this:
- find / -size +200000 -type f -ls |sort -k 7,7 -n
2. To find all plain files (not block, character, symbolic links, and so on) in a /var file system larger than 1,000 512-byte blocks (approximately 500 Kbytes) and sort on field 7 (file size) while numerically ignoring leading blanks, do this:
- find /var -size +1000 -type f -ls |sort -k 7,7 -n
2008年11月16日 星期日
Using DBMS_SYS_SQL Package to grant Privilege
SQL> declare
2 sqltext varchar2(200);
3 c integer;
4 begin
5 for userlist in (select user_id,username from all_users where username not in ('SYS','SYSTEM','EYGLE')) loop
6 for tablelist in (select owner,table_name from dba_tables where owner = userlist.username) loop
7 sqltext := 'grant all on '||tablelist.owner||'.'||tablelist.table_name ||' to eygle with grant option';
8 c := sys.dbms_sys_sql.open_cursor();
9 sys.dbms_sys_sql.parse_as_user( c,sqltext,dbms_sql.native,userlist.user_id);
10 sys.dbms_sys_sql.close_cursor(c);
11 end loop;
12 end loop;
13 end;
14 /
PL/SQL procedure successfully completed.
SQL>
SQL> set pause on
SQL> select owner,table_name,privilege,grantable from dba_tab_privs where grantee='EYGLE' and owner='SCOTT';
OWNER TABLE_NAME PRIVILEGE GRA
------------------------------ ------------------------------ ---------- ---
SCOTT BONUS ALTER YES
SCOTT BONUS DELETE YES
SCOTT BONUS INDEX YES
SCOTT BONUS INSERT YES
SCOTT BONUS SELECT YES
SCOTT BONUS UPDATE YES
SCOTT BONUS REFERENCES YES
SCOTT DEPT ALTER YES
SCOTT DEPT DELETE YES
SCOTT DEPT INDEX YES
SCOTT DEPT INSERT YES
OWNER TABLE_NAME PRIVILEGE GRA
------------------------------ ------------------------------ ---------- ---
SCOTT DEPT SELECT YES
SCOTT DEPT UPDATE YES
SCOTT DEPT REFERENCES YES
SCOTT EMP ALTER YES
SCOTT EMP DELETE YES
SCOTT EMP INDEX YES....
2 sqltext varchar2(200);
3 c integer;
4 begin
5 for userlist in (select user_id,username from all_users where username not in ('SYS','SYSTEM','EYGLE')) loop
6 for tablelist in (select owner,table_name from dba_tables where owner = userlist.username) loop
7 sqltext := 'grant all on '||tablelist.owner||'.'||tablelist.table_name ||' to eygle with grant option';
8 c := sys.dbms_sys_sql.open_cursor();
9 sys.dbms_sys_sql.parse_as_user( c,sqltext,dbms_sql.native,userlist.user_id);
10 sys.dbms_sys_sql.close_cursor(c);
11 end loop;
12 end loop;
13 end;
14 /
PL/SQL procedure successfully completed.
SQL>
SQL> set pause on
SQL> select owner,table_name,privilege,grantable from dba_tab_privs where grantee='EYGLE' and owner='SCOTT';
OWNER TABLE_NAME PRIVILEGE GRA
------------------------------ ------------------------------ ---------- ---
SCOTT BONUS ALTER YES
SCOTT BONUS DELETE YES
SCOTT BONUS INDEX YES
SCOTT BONUS INSERT YES
SCOTT BONUS SELECT YES
SCOTT BONUS UPDATE YES
SCOTT BONUS REFERENCES YES
SCOTT DEPT ALTER YES
SCOTT DEPT DELETE YES
SCOTT DEPT INDEX YES
SCOTT DEPT INSERT YES
OWNER TABLE_NAME PRIVILEGE GRA
------------------------------ ------------------------------ ---------- ---
SCOTT DEPT SELECT YES
SCOTT DEPT UPDATE YES
SCOTT DEPT REFERENCES YES
SCOTT EMP ALTER YES
SCOTT EMP DELETE YES
SCOTT EMP INDEX YES....
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